Sunday 21 September 2008

Horse Tartare - Arnaud Delafosse

One of my favourite of all times. Unfortunately, I had to forget it while I spent my 14 years in London*. Now Im back in France, Im having this for breakfast everyday (...well, not quite).

You can either present it all separate in the plate (like this), for each to do their own mix, or Brasserie-style, prepared just before serving. Here is how (for 1 person):

  • 250 gr of freshly minced horse steak
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 teaspoons of French mustard
  • 2 teasp of freshly chopped flat parsley
  • 2 teasp of finely chopped shallots
  • 2 teasp of finely chopped cornichons (small gherkins)
  • salt
  • ground black pepper

optional:
  • 1 teasp of capers
  • few drops of Worcestershire sauce
  • few drops of Tabasco (or even better proper chilli sauce)
  • few drops of virgin olive oil


Mix all the ingredients (but the egg) in a salad bowl then add the meat. Mix well then add the egg yolk.
Serve immediately in a plate with French fries, a bit of Mache salad and a glass of red wine... et voilà !

You can now play Donna Lee @ 320 bpm, Ascot style.

*Apparently it's illegal for UK butchers to sell horse meat (although it's totally OK to kill them at the races for ridiculous amounts of money), nevertheless some are still bred in the UK and exported for slaughter for the French and Italian markets. Complètement crazy, n'est-ce pas ?!

2 comments:

Jazz Chefs said...

Sounds good.
Do you reckon this is how Shergar ended up?
Seriously though, I had Horse once in Switzerland and it was pretty dry and tough.
Is this how the meat is, or do you think it was just cooked badly?
Mike..

Jazz Chefs said...

I think you were not very lucky. Horse meat has been recommended for decades* over beef as it's much leaner (almost no fat), more tender and with more iron/vitamins etc. than beef ; generally much healthier.
The taste is not that much different either, contrary to popular belief.

I know this is not very english, but generally red meat (unlike pork or poultry) is much better (r.e. taste AND dietary-wise) not very cooked rather than well done. It otherwise looses a lot of its taste, texture and kills all the nutrients and vitamins.
The whole bacteria thang is a non-event if you buy good fresh meat from a reliable butchers. (So my advice is buy LESS but buy GOOD, but don't overcook meat just because it's crap, you might as well eat a plank of wood.)

Of course, I didn't mention it but in the Tartare, you can replace the horse meat by beef. Just get a good cut from your local butchers. ;)

À bientôt !

*Just like the cow milk Vs goat milk debate (or even more worrying, GM food), the agro-food industry marketing decisions are driven by very strong lobbies rather than public health issues.